far and away, part 2
when i was first planning this leg of our adventure, i came across the website for the railroad company ferrobaires that runs the set of track south. after determining the schedule, i figured that the overnight trek would be ideal for us, allowing sleep after the nearly twenty-four hours of airline transport.
i found out the sleeper car was not available, but we decided that the photos of the pullman cars looked comfortable enough to go ahead with the plan. when we arrived at the station, we were told that there were no seats on the pullman cars, or no pullman cars. our choices were classe primera or classe tourista. we went with primera.
first impressions upon entering the vintage 1950s coach:
electric fixtures torn out and dangling wires.
nogahide seats ripped, cut, and torn.
jagged holes in the walls where luggage hooks had long since been absent.
steel doors that don´t quite close.
loose paneling.
grafitti.
the briefly entertained notion of getting off the train then and there quickly disolved against the realities of walking out into the street of buenos aires after dark, not knowing the language or where we might go to lay our heads through the night. we settled in for the long trip through the night.
"settled in" being an entirely optimistic statement.
the train delayed there for some thirty minutes before setting off, rocking and clanking into the setting sun. i would describe the scene out of our window except for the fact that the thick brown dusting of dirt on either side made the exterior world a fuzzy mass of blurred shapes of color, alternating lightness and darkness.
my first thoughts that came to mind were of the quantification of our relative safety. the dome lighting running the length of the car had only half the fixtures working and of those that were, emitted the light of a 40 watt bulb when the train was at full speed. this was rare. at the regular speed the bulbs pushed about 15 watts. would i be robbbed at knifepoint by banditos, stabbed and tossed into the brambles that grew trackside?


Stumble It!